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The North Georgia Colors
The mountains and hills will burst into song before you, and all the trees of
the earth will clap their hands. Isaiah 55: 12
The sunlight slants in on
its Autumn angle, backlighting a never-ending parade of yellow, orange and
red-leafed Maples, Oaks, Poplars and Elms on the sunlit side of the mountain as
I ride one of the hundreds of twisting roads in North Georgia. Around every turn
is another brilliant neon-like scene of electrified color - even the double
yellow lines and orange diamond-shaped road signs are in lock step
with nature's massive color scheme. I find myself having to pull my eyes away
from the scenery and back to the road, as these mountain roads are not to be
taken for granted.
To anyone who rides a
motorcycle in the southeastern US, the roads of North Georgia, are well known and frequently ridden.
Much of the three-state area is contained within the Chattahoochee and Cherokee
National Forests, protected and pristine, and any weekend day will find riders
taking in the curves and scenery in three out of four seasons, with an
occasional temperate winter's day thrown in for good measure.
It is the last weekend in
October, and this is a particularly good this year for Autumn colors. The sun comes in on an angled ecliptic, not overhead, adding
drama to the scenic views. Golden light illuminates a fully turned out red and
yellow forest through its leaves, intensifying these colors of the spectrum all
the more. Long shadows spill across the road like a river overrunning its banks,
and the sun is never in my eyes, but from behind and over my left shoulder.
In Georgia's autumn,
daily temperatures can vary by 20 degrees or more, with a tug-of-war
between northern cold fronts and Gulf of Mexico produced warming trends staking
claim until Winter takes hold. As a result, daytime temperatures often reach
the mid-seventies well into November. At 72 degrees, it is just such a
day, making the area a perfect combination of comfortable riding conditions,
great roads, and spectacular jaw-dropping scenery. If it could be any closer to
perfect, I don't know how.
In this area at this time
of the year, with the fall colors in full swing, the problem is not finding the
excellent and challenging riding roads and scenic views but simply having the
time to explore them all. The best solution is to pi ck the first one, then the
next, then the next. As I am a native of Atlanta and live an hour's ride from
here, I have set a task of traveling several routes over the next
three days to catalog and photograph some of the better known riding roads
in the area.
Day one begins by riding
west on State Route 52 from Hwy 365, after traveling north from Atlanta for 52
miles. SR52 west out of Lula is a fine riding road in its own right, as the
curves go from predominantly gentle to moderately challenging and work as a
rider's "warm up" as one continues westward toward Dahlonega. Should you decide
to stay here, the town of Dahlonega works as a good "base of operations" of
sorts, allowing you to launch into any number of excellent day rides in
directions north, east or west and still get back to your hotel by dinnertime.
The town itself features tourist attractions, a town square catering to
visitors, gold mining history and folklore with a museum of the same, with
several good restaurants, ice cream parlors and the like. Within the town's
borders are several of the better known chain hotels (make reservations this
time of year!)
Out of Dahlonega, I ride
Hwy 19 north to State Route 60 toward Suches. Any adjectives to describe riding
this road during this time of year fail to adequately capture the experience.
Take heed however, as this road is not for the faint-of-heart. It can be either
hell-raising or hair-raising, depending on the motorcycle you ride, your
skill-level, and your experience with tight 'S' curves and diminishing radius
turns. With an alert and confident rider, however, this road can
return some of the best riding experiences you are likely to have on a
motorcycle. The road is well-paved and maintained, the ride exhilarating, and
scenery that is gorgeous any time of year is made that much more worthwhile when
steeped in the colors of Autumn. Selected stops feature scenic vistas that sight
to the horizon, and spectacular views of the Blue Ridge Mountains regardless of
season. At approximately five miles up SR60 in the area know as Woody Gap, a
look to the left and down into the valley will reveal a great expanse of open
multicolored forest with Springer Mountain rising on the other side. Other stops
on the road display signs and information indicating historic Civil War battles,
Native American history, gold mining sites and area hiking trails. Every inch in
in credible.
Seven miles of twisties
on SR60 leads to the town of Suches, a well-known rider's
destination and home to the now famous TWO, an abbreviation for "Two Wheels
Only" (http://www.twowheelsonly.com)
a lodge that caters to motorcycle riders and tr avelers. Any clear weekend
day will find the gravel parking lot filled with bikes of all styles and
vintage, with Sport riders in armored gear and Harley riders in leathers
all congregating. The lodge is a substantial log structure with tables and chairs,
couches, a TV running motorcycling videos, and walls covered by more rider
memorabilia than most have ever seen, with motorcycle
periodicals stacked high on end tables. It features great food, a
regulation-sized pool table and coffee by the cup on the "honor system". A very
"homey" place. Every weekend during "the season" will find travelers from all
over the US and Canada. It's a great place to compare notes with other riders,
and if you're from out of town, get info on local roads. It's a definite must
see if you are visiting the area. SR60 continues north another 38 miles to the
border with North Carolina and is in itself a spectacular and challenging ride
all the way.
The "Georgia Triangle" is
a well-known riding circuit in this area, and begins where Hwy 19 meets SR60. As
the name implies, the triangle consists of three roads - SR60 to Suches, where a
right turn on SR180 leads to Hwy 19 south, and returns back to SR60 for a 37-mile round trip. The second leg of the
triangle, SR180, begins at a right turn approximately 100 yard s north of TWO.
This segment of the loop is without a doubt the most challenging portion of the
triangle. It is a truly mind-boggling road, and one you would not want to miss,
but I would highly recommend taking it at a deliberately leisurely pace the
first time through. The first few miles are a rather sedate primarily straight
two-lane blacktop, leading to Lake Winfield Scott, a small very scenic lake that
acts as a large reflecting pool the foothill Mountains that surround it. Rimmed
by overhanging trees, the reflections of yellows and reds of fall make this a
particularly great spot to stop and take in the yearly miracle of nature.
Once past the lake,
however, it's off to a roller-coaster of a ride. The first indicator of what's
ahead is a sign that reads 'Sharp Curves and Grades Next 5 Miles'. The sign is a
monument to understatement. SR180 snakes through the Sosbee Cove Scenic Area
with speed limit signs on some curves reading as low as 10 mph, with nary a
straight-line section to be had. Here the road looks more like a hiker's
switchback trail than a road intended for traffic, and this asphalt ribbon has
the reputation of having more sharp curves and steeper grades than any other
paved road in Georgia. Vigilance is ever necessary, as while SR180 is a pure
adrenaline rush on two wheels, it claims the largest number of motorcycle
accidents in the area. I find a few places to pull off the road for photographs
of riders as they roll through golden forest.
At the end of SR180, the
road 'Ts' into Hwy 19, and at the intersection of these two roads is Vogel State
Park, a moderately sized and very scenic
park that features a deep blue lake surrounded by mountains and trees at peak
color. Lodging is available here as well, with everything from basic tent
camping to motor home sites that feature water and power provisions at all
locations and a small general store on site in the park. Rustic log cabins and
cottages with up to three bedrooms are also available, but once again make
reservations, as 'peak season' typically runs from late April through the
Thanksgiving holiday and the changing colors of fall are a particularly popular
time here.
Heading south on Hwy 19
back toward the start of SR60 is the last leg of the triangle. Being a state
highway, the road here is a bit wider, with passing zones for more safely getting around slower traffic. Still, most of the highway - as almost all
the roads in North Georgia - are made up of continual series of 'S' curves all
the way down the mountain. As Hwy 19 is wider, has two-lane passing zones, and
is better paved than SR180, it would likely be considered the least
challenging of the triangle, but take nothing for granted - it can be a
handlebar full as well.
With the abbreviated day
length this time of year, and with stops for photographs on the triangle roads,
the sun is low in the sky when I start the hour-and- a half ride home. Sunday
weather promises mid-sixties temperatures and clear, and I will be back here to
enjoy it.
The next morning I arrive
in Dahlonega again, this time to head further west on Hwy 52 up to Ft.
Mountain Park then on to Chatsworth, where US Route 411 leads north
across the Tennessee border to scenic Hwy 64/74. Taking this highway east will
lead
through the Lake Ocoee and River basin on the southern end of Cherokee National
Forest. From there, taking NC68 south will lead back into Georgia to SR60 and Suches,
then return to Dahlonega on Hwy 19. It is an ambitious 175 mile loop that will
take four to five hours (depending on stops for fuel, food, and photographs).
Hwy 52 begins as a sedate gently curving highway towards Ellijay, allowing a
relaxed (but alert!) frame of mind. The road borders the southern end of
the Chattahoochee National Forest, passing Amicalola State Park on the way, and
the autumn show here is in full swing for the entire 39 mile ride up to Ellijay.
Once through the town
square of Ellijay, SR52 begins the ascent up to Ft. Mountain Park. While it is
probably one of the lesser known riding roads in North Georgia, it is easily one
of the most enjoyable and one
 of my favorites. Full of challenging twisties and scenic stopping points, and with the stunning colors this time of
year, it is as fine a road as any the state has to offer. A few miles past
Ellijay, the road no longer borders but makes a right turn directly into the
Chattahoochee National Forest. Here, as the road ascends, the sun faces the
mountain and moves slowly through an angled arc, shining through autumn colors
and bathing the entire 25-mile length of highway in a bright golden glow. Once
again, adjectives cannot fully capture the magical feel of the surroundings, and
while photographs can give you an idea, it is something that has to be seen with
your own eyes to be fully appreciated. You find yourself involuntarily saying
the word "WOW" around every curve. As a photographer, I find myself having to
resist the impulse to stop every mile for photographs.
Past Fort Mountain Park,
the road descends for seven miles off the mountain and into the little town of
Chatsworth. It's a good stop to take a break for gas and food, as once out
of the area choices become fewer and farther between. US Route
411 heads due north on for 25 miles and is a basic four-lane highway that allows
some decompression time after the "rock and roll" of SR52. It is a sedate
camel-back road that allows you to "kick back" for awhile before the next
section of twisting asphalt. On this road you cross the Tennessee state
line, eventually reaching the entrance of Tennessee's Scenic Hwy 64/74, which
leads to the Ocoee River Basin. Here not only the autumn color in the trees but
the tan color of the highway (now called "Old Copper Road") contributes to the
overall color scheme, contrasted by the dark blue of Lake Ocoee and the river of
the same name famous for whitewater rafting and kayaking. This highway is
excellent for a simple relaxed viewing of the surroundings, while the curves are
sedate but windi ng enough to keep your interest. Be aware of pedestrians and
vehicles loading and unloading kayaks around any turn though, even at this time
of year, as well as the occasional slow-moving RV.
At about the 27th mile,
Hwy 68 will send you back south through Grassy Creek and back over the Georgia
state line at McCaysville. Picking up SR60 here going south takes you back
towards Suches, and this leg is another of the best known and most often ridden
roads in North Georgia. It is a wonderful road with a continuous series of curve
sets for all of its 37 miles back to TWO - some extreme - with only a few
straight-line sections allowing you to catch your breath.
This loop constitutes a
LONG riding day, and some may be ready to "pack it in" before completing the
entire 175 mile ride. Most towns along this route are of reasonable size with
chain hotels available, so provided you call ahead (bring a hotel guide and cellphone!) you can usually find lodging along the way, should you wish to
extend it to a two-day ride .
October 29th several days
before saw the end of daylight savings time for the year, so peak sunlight
occurs fairly early in the day, about 2:30 PM. Sunset is about 5:30 PM, and in
the mountains, the sun drops behind the peaks on the way to nightfall
considerably sooner. With each afternoon hour past peak light, the sky's colors
turn progressively warmer toward the orange and reds of all sunsets, deepening
the colors everywhere around you. As I ride SR60 south out of Suches, the yellow
becomes gold, then muted orange, then red, then violet, the day's end changing
the fascinating scene with each passing minute, before losing the light behind
the mountain and finishing the daily visual concert like a symphonic finale.
While the show is
certainly worth staying for the encore, if you're in the mountains near day's
end, good timing is essential, as there is absolutely no artificial light up
here. While that is of course the point, nightfall will bring a dangerous
combination of a pitch dark twisting mountain road with few guardrails and steep
dropoffs, with wildlife that lives everywhere in a national forest environment.
As I have timed it properly by luck more than planning, and with a full moon on
the rise on the opposite side of the sky from the sunset, the ride out of the
mountains toward home is as magnificent as the rest of the day.
My third riding day takes
me a few miles further east, closer to the Bavarian town of Helen Georgia, and
some of the roads in this area. As with the best riding roads of the previous
two days, most are within earshot of small to medium sized towns featuring
lodging, restaurants and tourist attractions, and this area is no exception.
Most who live in the southeastern US have heard of Helen, with it's alpine
styled chalets, German restaurants, and general Bavarian theme. A full
complement of hotels, including mountain houses and cabin rentals, are available
in this area. Many of the restaurants cater to riders, and any suitable weekend
afternoon will find rows of motorcycles parked in front of the establishments
and watering holes all along SR75, the "main drag" through the town.
But if you've come to
ride, you've come to the right place (here, there are no wrong ones!) The
area offers both excellent riding roads leading into and out of the area, as
well as several very nice "circuit routes" around Helen. One such route, and my
ride for the day, begins on the west side of town going north on GA356, which
passes the entrance of Unicoi State Park, before leading to GA197, both truly
excellent roads. The route heading north is true-to-form with moderately
twisting roads and gorgeous scenery, with lakes reflecting autumn colors and
temps in the comfortable 70s. A rider's dream. Once again, you're riding in the
Chattahoochee National Forest, which guarantees a minimum of either residential
or commercial development, save for a few cabin rental businesses and parks
purposely as undeveloped as possible. Traffic is light as well, with mor e
motorcyclists than automobiles on the roads, owing to the area's popularity with the
two-wheeled set. Going west on Hwy 76 for 15 miles leads back to GA75 south
again toward Helen, and both these roads are highly recommended - Hwy 76 for its
more open sedate curves, and GA75 for its extreme ones. GA75 also runs through
the Anna Ruby Falls Scenic area. It is an excellent "loop" ride any time of
year, made far more enjoyable by the colors of the season.
Returning to the
outskirts of Helen, a right turn on Alt. GA75 before reaching town and going
several miles south will bring you to GA348, also called the Richard B. Russell
Scenic Highway, another road not to be missed. This 14 mile serpentine carbon
ribbon ride (thanks Joni!) runs near the top of the Appalachian chain here, and connects you back to
SR180 and the Georgia Triangle area, bordering Unicoi State
Park and crossing the Appalachian Hiking Trail on its way up to Maine in the
process.
The most brief study of a
Georgia map will show that there are many roads and areas that have not been
covered here. Three days of riding and three thousand words allows neither the
time nor scope to cover many of the best roads in the area, let alone others in
so uthern Tennessee and North Carolina. These are left for you to discover, and
there are plenty left to try. Loosely bordered by I-75 northwest out of Atlanta,
and I-985 northeast, any of the roads north of Lake Lanier promise an excellent
return on the investment, and any time of year promises some of the best riding you're likely to experience anywhere in the continental US. But the Autumn
season offers all that with one of the best locales in the country for
witnessing the yearly miracle of the fall colors. Make plans to see it on two
wheels - it's something you'll never forget.
Copyright Philip A. Buonpastore, 2007 |
